Location and character
The famous and beautiful beach of Anse Intendance in the south-west of Mahé offers, depending on how you measure it, between 800 metres and a good kilometre of powdery white sand and huge rollers. It is set against lush green vegetation dotted with granite boulders, and the water is clear and turquoise. Because there is no protective reef along most of the beach, the waves are considerably bigger than at most other beaches on the island. For most of the year the beach is therefore better suited to surfing than to swimming, and I cannot recommend it for swimming without reservation. It is very popular for sunbathing and walks.
The Banyan Tree hotel once stood at the northern end of the beach. It was demolished and rebuilt. In December 2024, after years of reconstruction of the former Banyan Tree site, the Cheval Blanc Seychelles resort opened there. It is the only hotel on the beach. The beach itself remains open to everyone, but the hotel grounds behind it are private property.
Getting there
By car
The drive from Victoria to Intendance takes about 45 minutes. Follow Bois de Rose Avenue onto the Providence Highway, pass the airport and continue south along the coast road, the East Coast Road. At Anse Forbans the road bends away from the beach and climbs gently inland. At the junction by the Quatre Bornes police station, turn left onto Intendance Road. From there it is about 4 minutes downhill to the junction where a road branches off to the right towards Intendance. A sign there points to the beach; it used to say "Banyan Tree". From the police station a concrete road about 1.7 kilometres long leads to the beach.
You can park a few metres from the beach in a public car park. It lies at the end of a newly asphalted road, and a short paved path leads from there to the sand. The car park is small, so on fine weekends it is best to arrive early.
By bus
Take the 5A "Intendance via Bougainville", or take any bus to Baie Lazare or Takamaka and change there to route 9C "Baie Lazare - Intendance". The 5A leaves from the bus terminal in Victoria and stops at a point from which the beach is a five-minute walk downhill. It runs only a few times a day and can be late.
The number 5 runs more often. With it, or with any other service via Takamaka, get off in the village of Takamaka at the "Quatre Bornes" stop, not at Anse Takamaka. From there it is roughly 1.7 kilometres downhill on foot to the beach. Current departure times are available from the Seychelles Public Transport Corporation (SPTC), as timetables change from time to time.
| Path | Duration from Victoria | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Car or rental car | approx. 45 minutes | Small car park, a few metres to the beach |
| Bus 5A | depending on timetable | Few departures, 5 minutes on foot downhill |
| Bus 5 to “Quatre Bornes” | depending on timetable | Then approx. 1.7 km on foot downhill |
| Taxi | approx. 45 minutes | Arrange return trip in advance |
Swimming, waves and the best time to visit
During the south-east trade winds the waves can reach frightening heights, while the sea is calmer during the north-west monsoon. Because the beach is not protected by a reef, currents can catch you here even if you are a strong swimmer. The water gets deep quickly, and with the south-east trades big waves pound the beach. There are no lifeguards, and red flags must always be heeded. If you do not go out far, you can stand in the waves and let the surf push you back. In calmer weather that is fun, but in strong wind it is dangerous, and all the more so with children.
| Period | Sea |
|---|---|
| May to September | Southeast trade wind: high waves, currents. Visitors report warning signs for June to September, seagrass occurs in these months. |
| October and November | The waves noticeably subside from mid-October. |
| December to March | Northwest monsoon: usually the calmest time, occasional rain. |
| April | Transition, often calmer, but wind-dependent. |
Snorkelling is only suitable here on calm days. There is hardly any reef, and visibility depends heavily on the swell. If you want to swim or snorkel safely when the sea is rough, you will often find calmer water at neighbouring Anse Takamaka. Visitors report days when swimming was possible there while the sea at Intendance stayed rough.
Facilities
Shade is limited. At the access to the beach you can rest in the shade of the trees in the afternoon, but you should still bring a parasol. There are no sunbeds or parasols for hire, and the hotel's are for its own guests. You cannot buy food or drink on the beach, so pack water and provisions. There are no toilets or showers on the beach either, so plan for that.
Tips and surroundings
- Turtles: The beach is a nesting site for hawksbill turtles. The nesting season is given as September to March. During this time, avoid using lights on the beach at night and do not enter any roped-off areas.
- Best time for photography: Morning and late afternoon, when the light is soft.
- Combining visits: Allow half a day for the beach and its surroundings, which is easily done with your own car.
Other beaches on the south coast are close by: Anse Takamaka, Anse Bazarca, Anse Forbans and Police Bay and Petit Police. The small bay of Petite Anse is nearby, but according to reports access there is controlled at a security gate, so check beforehand. Inland, Le Jardin du Roi Spicegarden is worth a visit. For an overview of the island, see the page on Mahé.
